Situated in northeastern Italy, the Dolomites are one among Europe’s most dramatic mountain ranges. A mixture of serrated limestone peaks, sheer cliffs, shimmering alpine lakes and deep, slender valleys, they’ve lengthy been a magnet for geologists, travellers and out of doors fans alike. From a hiker’s perspective, this legendary sub-range of the Alps boasts an intensive system of pathways (i.e. “Vias”), and of the numerous trails that crisscross its rugged topography, probably the most well-known of all of them is the Alta By way of 1 (AV1).
I hiked the AV1 together with the Alta By way of 2 over 10 days in mid/late September, 2019. Click on right here for a full rundown of the latter hike. Please word that the knowledge beneath is basically directed in direction of impartial hikers, somewhat than of us going as a part of organised trekking teams.
Ascending in direction of the Forcella de Zita Sud on Stage 10 of the Alta By way of 1.
At a Look
Distance (11 Phases): 120 km (75 mi)
Length (common): 8 to 10 days
Problem Stage: Reasonable
Begin / End:
- Lago di Braies
- La Pissa Bus Cease (Val Cordevole)
Lago di Braies – Northern terminus of the Alta By way of 1
Lago di Braies – the rowboat capital of the Dolomites.
Which Route?: I don’t assume it makes a lot of a distinction, although nearly all of folks appear to hike north to south; which is the best way the route is described within the Cicerone guidebook listed beneath.
Elevation Achieve: 6,665 m (21,833ft) approx.
Highest Level: Rifugio Lagazuoi – 2,752m (9,029ft)
Lowest Level: La Pissa – 448m (1,470ft)
Alta By way of 1 Overview Map (Trekking within the Dolomites, Cicerone Guides)
Getting There & Away
- Lago di Braeis is serviced by common Dolomiti buses to and from the villages of Villabassa and Dobbiaco. They go away hourly in the course of the summer time months and take between 20 to half-hour to succeed in the lake. See the Dolomiti web site for the present schedule. Each Villabassa and Dobbiaco are accessible by practice.
- La Pissa Bus Cease (Val Cordevole) is 20 minutes from the city of Belluno. For present timetables see the Dolomiti web site. Notice that timetables are additionally displayed within the final couple of refuges on the path. From Belluno, onward bus and practice companies can be found.
Southern terminus of the Alta By way of 1 within the Val Cordevole.
Season
- Mid-June to late September. In a median climate 12 months, September is right. The varsity vacation crowds are gone, the summer time thunderstorms (usually quick) have subsided, temperatures are cooler, and the mountain huts are much less crowded (Tip: Throughout July and August storms most frequently happen in the course of the afternoon. If attainable, attempt to make early begins and get the lion’s share of your mountain climbing achieved within the morning hours).
- Relying on the snow ranges and expertise of the aspirant, the AV1 may also be achieved within the late spring or early to mid fall. When mountain climbing at these occasions, chances are you’ll require an ice axe and traction units. Additionally word that the majority, if not the entire huts will probably be closed, so you’ll need to hold your whole personal meals and a tent/tarp.
Yours really approaching the Forcella del Lago (2,486 m) on Stage 3 of the Alta By way of 1.
Planning Data
- Guidebook: Gillian Worth, Trekking within the Dolomites (Cicerone Guides) | Kindle model obtainable | The e book consists of logistical beta, trekking notes, elevation profiles, fundamental maps (not detailed sufficient for navigation), city info, and time and distance estimates for every of the AV1’s 11 phases.
- Maps: 1. Tabacco produces probably the most detailed mountain climbing maps for the Dolomites. Three 1:25,000 topo maps cowl the complete AV1 (i.e. Sheets – 031, 03 and 025, ). Additionally obtainable on-line from Amazon and Omnimap.com. Notice that it’s attainable to select them up when you arrive, however there aren’t any ensures all three sheets will probably be obtainable; 2. Alternatively, Kompass produces a 1:50,000 ‘Wanderkarte’ sequence that covers the route (3 maps whole – Sheets 57,55 and 77).
Stage 5 between Rifugio Nuvolau to Rifugio Citta di Fiume passes by a beautiful excessive altitude pasture which was as soon as the area of Mesolithic hunters.
- Permits: No permits are required to hike the AV1.
- Language: German and Italian. A fundamental information of both undoubtedly turns out to be useful, nevertheless, nearly the entire locals you’ll encounter alongside the route know at the very least a bit of English.
- Cell/Cell Cellphone Protection: I are likely to maintain my cellphone in flight mode 99% of the time whereas I hike, however from what I can inform service within the Dolomites is spotty as soon as you allow the villages/cities. That stated, on the AV1 a lot of the huts now provide Wifi for company, and it’s often attainable to cost your cellphone and/or battery pack whether or not you might be overnighting, or simply stopping in for breakfast or lunch.
Skirting beneath the Cime de la Scala on the ultimate stage of the AV1.
- Money or Card: Lots of the huts (although not all) alongside the AV1 settle for bank cards. You should definitely convey sufficient money simply in case you might be staying in a single or two that don’t.
- AV1 Planning Abstract: I’d suggest the next course: 1. Learn by this text; 2. Buy the informative Cicerone information; 3. Obtain a GPX file (see above) to your cellphone (I exploit the Gaia GPS app), and; 4. Choose up the Tabacco maps.
Resupply & Water
- Resupply: You received’t go hungry on the AV1. Procuring meals alongside the best way is straightforward in case you are mountain climbing in the course of the summer time season. Merely eat your essential meals on the regularly-spaced Rifugi (mountain huts), at which you may as well buy snacks and sandwiches to go. Notice that in case you are involved in mountain climbing out of season, you both have to hold all your personal meals from begin to end, or undertake some detours off-route alongside the best way.
Refugio Biella on the finish of Stage 1.
- Water: Not like in lots of different elements of the Alps, H20 is comparatively scarce within the higher areas of the Dolomites. In response to Gillian Worth within the Cicerone Information, that is because of the “dolomite-limestone rock (most floor water disappears underground) in addition to the dearth of glaciers and everlasting snow fields.” In sensible phrases, which means that hikers ought to all the time concentrate on the place their subsequent probability to refill will probably be earlier than setting out on every stage. Notice that bottled water is all the time obtainable for buy within the huts – usually at very costly costs (e.g. €3 for a 1.5 lt bottle – September, 2019).
Route / Circumstances
- Overview: Though fairly demanding in sections – there’s a whole of 6665 m (21,833 ft) elevation achieve all through its course – the AV1 is nicely marked and maintained, and throughout the capabilities of most hikers. A superb multi-day possibility for first-time alpine hikers. Not like the area’s well-known By way of Ferratas (i.e. “Iron Roads” – protected climbing paths with cables, ladders and iron rungs which can be connected to rock partitions), the AV1 doesn’t embrace any technical sections that require specialised gear. That being stated, for these wishing to expertise the famed iron roads, it does go by a few of these spectacular alternates; notably the Ferrata Marmol on Stage 11.
- Historical past: The By way of Ferrata are rather more than an exhilarating solution to expertise the Dolomites breathtaking landscapes. In addition they characterize a visible reminder of the world’s bloody historical past. Throughout WW1, the Dolomites have been the scene of fierce battles between the Italian and Austro Hungarian forces. The By way of Ferrata have been put in throughout these years as a method of enabling troops faster entry to the entrance line. The Alta By way of 1 additionally weaves by fascinating open air battle museums at Mount Lagazuoi (the Alta By way of 1’s highest level) and Cinque Torri (5 Towers). At these scenic areas, hikers can witness first hand the in depth system of tunnels and trenches that have been constructed between 1915 and 1917. The juxtaposition between somber historical past and spectacular pure magnificence is putting.
The start of the Stage 4 alternate through the steep tunnel (see beneath for particulars) slightly below Rifugio Lagazuoi
Throughout World Battle 1 troops on either side excavated a system of tunnels across the Piccolo Lagazuoi for the aim of laying explosives to mine enemy positions. Probably the most notable of those tunnels is the Galleria Lagazuoi, which descends for 1100 m at a forty five° gradient for a complete elevation drop of 230 m (Notice: Don’t neglect your headlamp).
- Navigation: The path is nicely marked from begin to end. The route is marked with crimson and whites paint splashes and cairns.
- How Lengthy will it take?: Within the opening “At a Look” part I point out that the typical AV1 hiker will take between 8 and 10 days. That stated, the period of time it takes to complete the AV1 can differ significantly relying on a variety of elements. Match and skilled hikers carrying a lightweight pack, can comfortably do the AV1 in 4 or 5 days.
- Favorite Sections: My favorite phases on the AV1 have been as follows:
-
- Stage 4 Variant – Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Nuvolau. Except you could have extreme claustrophobia or dodgy knees, be sure you take the variant through the wartime tunnels right down to Passo Falzarego.
- Stage 5 – Rifugio Nuvolau to Rifugio Citta di Fiume – Excessive altitude pasture with beautiful rock formations.
- Stage 10 – Rifugio Pramperet to Rifugio Pian de Fontana. Arguably the most effective views of the entire path on both facet of the Forcella de Zita Sud.
Approaching the Forcella de Zita Sud (2,395 m / 7,858 ft)
Sleeping
Choices on the AV1 embrace staffed mountain huts and wild tenting:
- Mountain Huts: Nearly all of backpackers within the Dolomites keep within the rifugi (mountain huts). These staffed refuges could be discovered all through the vary, and infrequently boast unbelievable excessive altitude areas, together with spectacular vistas. Most are open from mid-June to late September, and together with in a single day lodging (dormitory and generally non-public rooms), in addition they provide breakfast, lunch and dinner. The perfect worth can often be discovered within the half-board provide (mezza pensione), which consists of a 3 course dinner, a mattress, and breakfast. As of 2019, half-board prices round 45 to 55 Euros. Notice that members of the Membership Alpino Italiano often pay round 20% lower than non-members, and folk which can be affiliated with sure different European Alpine or Mountain golf equipment (e.g. UK, Austria, German, French), take pleasure in reciprocal rights. In the course of the peak season months of July and August, lodging ought to ideally be booked prematurely (particularly in case you are mountain climbing in a bunch).
The fantastically located Rifugio Pramperet marks the tip of Stage 9.
- Wild Tenting: Common readers of ‘The Climbing Life’ knew this bit was coming. Whereas I loved consuming breakfasts and lunches within the huts throughout my time on the AV1, I averted in a single day stays within the huts. The principle causes for that is have been that: A. I don’t sleep nicely in dormitories, and; B. If I’m mountain climbing within the mountains I want to sleep outdoors at any time when attainable. That being the case, I did what I nearly all the time do – arrange camp at sundown and left the next morning earlier than dawn.
- Is Wild Tenting Authorized within the Dolomites?: Formally talking, “tenting” – which is outwardly outlined in Italy as staying in the identical tent website for greater than 48 hours – is strictly prohibited. Alternatively, the “in a single day bivouac” – establishing late and leaving early the next morning is allowed (or at the very least tolerated) so long as you follow LNT ideas. See the next article on the hikedolomites.com web site for a extra detailed breakdown.
- Virtually talking, I discovered wild tenting within the Dolomites to be much like different Alpine areas I’ve hiked by over time – that’s, so long as you arrange late in a stealthy spot, go away at daybreak the subsequent day, and follow LNT ideas always, there aren’t any points. Throughout my journey I met a handful of different campers who like myself encountered no issues following this technique.
Ingesting within the alpenglow from a wild camp on the Alta By way of 1.
Ultimate Ideas on the AV1
1. Alta By way of 1 Vs Alta By way of 2 – I hiked these two stunning trails back-to-back over 10 days in mid/late September, 2019. I used to be very lucky with the climate, encountering solely at some point of rain throughout each hikes. Just a few factors to notice:
- The Alta By way of 1 is simpler and extra regularly trafficked than the AV2, being notably common with organised trekking teams. One thing to remember in case you are making hut reservations prematurely.
- Not like the Alta By way of 2, there aren’t any By way of Ferrata sections on the usual AV1. This truth, together with is mostly gentler elevation profile and simpler terrain, makes it the choice of alternative for folk which can be comparatively new to multi-day mountain climbing journeys.
- Which is extra scenically spectacular – the AV1 or AV2?: That’s a tricky one. It is rather shut, but when I had to decide on I’d most likely go along with the AV2. Alternatively, I’d give the AV1 the benefit on the historical past entrance, and possibly a slight edge with regard to culinary choices as nicely.
I by no means truly weighed myself, however I believe I’ll have placed on a kilo or two throughout my time within the Dolomites (lunch at Rifugio Coldai).
2. Enrosadira – The rock pinnacles and spires of the Dolomites are notably spectacular at dawn and sundown, because the pale dolostone peaks gentle up with a salmon-coloured glow. The Italians confer with this phenomena as “enrosadira” (alpenglow).
3. Base for the Dolomites: Throughout my time within the Dolomite area, I primarily based myself within the city of Brunico (Bolzano), which not solely supplied quick access to each the AV1 and AV2, but additionally to the third multi-day hike I did within the space, the Pfunderer Hohenweg (journey report nonetheless to come back).
4. Carry a lightweight pack – There are a variety of causes to lighten your pack load, nevertheless the large ones are merely consolation, well being and pleasure. It’s higher for each your physique, which is much less prone to incur stress-related accidents, and in addition your thoughts, which is prone to be much less distracted than it could be beneath the burden of a heavy load (see the Gear and Ultralight dropdown menus for ideas). Because of the recurrently located full-service huts on the AV1, hikers by no means have to hold various snacks, and for these staying completely in huts, your pack will probably be even lighter nonetheless as there isn’t a must pack a shelter or perhaps a sleeping bag/quilt. For a rundown of the gear I carried on the AV1, see the accompanying submit: Gear Checklist: Alta By way of 1 and a couple of (Dolomites, Italy).
5. Timing Your Days: As is the case just about all around the Alps, a lot of the hikers you’ll encounter appear to start their mountain climbing day round 8 – 9 am, and end someday between 2 and 4 pm, once they arrive at their pre-reserved hut. Because of this the paths are sometimes hiker-free throughout what I contemplate to be the most effective occasions of the day (i.e. early morning and late afternoon). From my perspective, herein lies the best advantage of carrying your personal shelter – freedom. The liberty to come up at daybreak when the birds are singing, and stroll in solitude beneath an infinite ceiling of rising blue. The identical applies to sundown, when the temps are cooler, wildlife reemerging and the sky is popping fifty shades of crimson. These are the occasions after I most wish to be out on the path. Not essentially to cowl extra miles, however as an alternative as a result of it makes me really feel like I’m extra part of the every day miracle that’s unfolding throughout me.
6. My AV1 Technique: FWIW, right here’s a tough breakdown of my every day schedule throughout my 3.5 days on the AV1:
- Begin my mountain climbing day at daybreak.
- Normally, I’d be camped 30 min to an hour from the subsequent hut, which I’d purpose at reaching by 730/8 am on the newest for a morning meal.
- Breakfasts – Normally, brekky on the huts was a combined bag. The great ones included a buffet of cereals, bread, cheeses, meats, a number of cups of espresso, and value round €9 or €10. The not-so-great ones have been of the continental selection consisting of bread, butter, jam, a espresso, and that’s about it. These value €7 or €8 and I invariably left hungry………probably not, as in these instances I’d purchase one thing additional to go.
- Lunches – Upon leaving after breakfast I knew kind of how lengthy it could take me to get to the subsequent hut, the place I might cease for a noon/mid-afternoon meal. So long as I received there by 2 to 230 pm, I all the time knew they’d nonetheless be serving. Lunches on the Rifugi have been generally expensive, however all the time good, with scorching meals setting you again wherever between €10 and €16. I often added a dessert and a few beers, after which I waddled out €20 to €30 lighter in pocket (however content material of abdomen).
- Dinner – I’d usually go away my lunch cease with one or two sandwiches (and an overpriced chocolate bar) to tide me over for the remainder of the day. Taking a look at my maps, I’d have in my thoughts the areas the place I might most probably discover a good tenting spot, at which level I’d usually arrive round sundown. The subsequent day I’d get up and do it once more………..
Stage 10 – Ultimate sundown of the AV1.
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