Glacier Lodge Eqi, Greenland
Thunderous echoes of crashing ice ripple throughout the bay like a relentless refrain of nature’s beat.
Nothing can put together you for the sound of a glacier calving. It’s a clap, crack and deep rumble that rolls throughout the floor of the water, seemingly gathering pitch and velocity. The very best half, it’s a delayed sound so you must actually focus and watch the glacier to really catch a calving in motion. For those who watch for the sound you’ll all the time be 7-10 seconds too late as a consequence of how sound travels throughout the fjord.
Positioned a 3.5hr ice breaker boat journey north of Ilulissat, Eqi Glacier is likely one of the world’s most lively and there’s little question a go to will embrace it’s fair proportion of tumbling ice reveals. Because the boat cruises via the Ataa Strait, teal colored water shares the scene with icebergs ranging in sizes from mega mansions via to dinner plates* (*not official measurements 😉). If a protracted boat journey sounds boring, you then’ve been on board the fallacious boats. This one is endlessly fascinating. Each passing iceberg is exclusive in form, tone and sample making the journey a photographer’s buffet of potential pictures.
Earlier than arriving to Port Victor to disembark at Glacier Lodge Eqi, the boat spends roughly two hours bobbing about instantly in entrance of the glacier wall. With calvings taking place continually, you possibly can {photograph} from the highest deck and watch in surprise because the true energy of nature turns into more and more evident. It’s not till the next day’s hike did I realise how small we actually had been on the boat, a tiny purple speck amongst an unlimited sea of icebergs.
Dimension right here is definitely one thing that’s actually, REALLY laborious to find out. What seems to be comparatively shut could also be 2km away and that is as a result of panorama being so overwhelmingly expansive with virtually no level of reference for comparability. The boat is likely one of the solely comparisons you’ll see all through your keep on the lodge and as soon as it arrives the subsequent day you’ll abruptly really feel like an ant in a bizarrely massive world. However that’s getting too far forward…let’s get again to the beginning of the journey.
Because the boat pulls in to Port Victor, named after the French explorer Paul-Émile Victor who used the world as a base camp whereas researching the glacier greater than 100yrs in the past, we’re warned to get off rapidly. The specter of a tsunami attributable to massive calvings is ever current and the group all the time have somebody on wave watch till all friends are above the security zone. Nothing like an adrenaline enhance to kick begin a 3 day glamping expertise I’ll always remember.
Glacier Lodge Eqi is likely one of the closest locations you will get to feeling such as you’re on the finish of the world. There’s no roads, no retailers, no city, no wifi, no telephone sign…simply someplace cosy to relaxation your head at night time and a world of alternatives to discover the fantastic thing about Greenland.
Friends can select between one among 4 luxurious cabins which have entry to working water and electrical energy, customary huts or the model new glamping tents, each of which don’t have working water or electrical energy however share rest room and bathe services. Whereas the bathroom could also be a brief hike away from the hut or tent, it implies that each time you go it’s a mini journey. It’s like roughing it with out the organising half, oh and, you’ve bought skilled guides, cozy bedding, blankets, non-public decks and a really proficient chef…so not too tough!
Having glamped earlier than within the tropical paradise of the Prepare dinner Islands, I used to be desperate to sleep in the identical situations on the opposite aspect of the world, contrasting climates and environment. World of Greenland had solely simply arrange the tents previous to my keep and as one of many first friends, I couldn’t have been extra impressed. Wandering down the wood ramp towards Tent C and up the steps to my non-public balcony (aka viewing deck to the most effective reveals on the earth), I did a cheerful dance…as a lot as I may muster whereas carrying my digicam bag and tote for the journey.
Opening the door to the tent revealed an area that will’ve made any explorer’s job a lot simpler, in truth, with my tent trying onto the unique hut used a long time in the past, I’ve bought nothing however the utmost respect for his or her efforts on this harsh atmosphere. Fitted out with pure tones and mild textures, the room is extra boutique lodge than tent. Blankets, rugs, pillows plus area to hold your garments, a desk and even a fuel heater for when it will get a bit chilly.
With the lodge solely accessible in the summertime months, there’s a great likelihood a keep right here will coincide with the midnight solar. We’ve all had these sleepless nights the place your thoughts is stressed and telling you to remain awake with ideas…the midnight solar has an identical impact however it’s weirdly calming and invigorating. Rugged up and enjoyable on the balcony, I stayed up nicely previous midnight to take a seat and take heed to the glacier calving because the solar ventured towards the horizon, barely touching it earlier than beginning to rise once more.
One factor to say, when sleeping within the tents there’s little sound proofing. For me, this was complete bliss as a result of it meant I may lie in mattress and take heed to the sound of the glacier because it calved all through the night time. On my first night time I used to be leaping off the bed each jiffy in an try and see what gave the impression of the most important calving ever, however alas, the velocity of sound meant I used to be tricked every time haha. For those who’re delicate to sounds at night time I’d counsel bringing ear plugs although!
For photographers there’s no finish to that heat, photogenic mild because it adjustments the landscapes earlier than your eyes. Photographing the glacier is like capturing a unique topic at each look. Out of your hut or tent you should use a zoom lens just like the Olympus 300mm f4 to {photograph} the patterns and calvings, or, if you wish to get a bit nearer, there’s a guided hike included in your keep.
Setting off after breakfast, the hike takes roughly 4-5hrs and traverses alongside the coast, over a waterfall and as much as one critically breathtaking view simply 800m from the glacier. It’s not significantly strenuous however does require a steep ascent in direction of the top and a few minor obstacles alongside the way in which….every one completely well worth the effort.
With packed lunches and snacks, you’re then in a position to sit and take in the sounds, sights and feeling of someplace so environmentally vital. These staying two nights on the lodge can decide to remain behind a bit longer and hike again on their very own, one thing I in a short time put my hand as much as do as a result of there’s one thing so magnetising about watching a glacier calve.
Staying a bit longer additionally ends in the comparability I discussed earlier. At roughly 11:30am you’ll get an opportunity to identify the boat because it arrives up the ice fjord. Our information joked that it’s fairly a enjoyable recreation to seek out it and it’s not till you truly see the boat dwarfed within the distance by icebergs that you simply realise how really minute it’s amongst the surroundings.
Fast Ideas –
– If staying within the huts or tents with out energy, you’re welcome to make use of the facility retailers in Café Victor to cost your cameras/telephones.
– Take solely a small bag along with your digicam gear and belongings for the keep. From the boat there’s a bit uphill hike over the rocks and when you’ve bought something bigger than a backpack it’ll be a battle. You may retailer your baggage on the World of Greenland in Ilulissat workplace earlier than departure.
– Be ready with plenty of layers because the climate can change rapidly. Within the arctic I all the time counsel having thermals, a fleece layer, thicker jacket + windproof layer. A beanie, neck warming fleece (my saviour on arctic journeys!), gloves and surprisingly sufficient…additionally layers like a t-shirt as a result of it may be fairly heat within the solar if there’s no wind. Additionally sun shades as a result of that solar doesn’t set!
– Don’t fear about meals, you’re supplied with scrumptious meals throughout your keep and may alert the group to any allergy symptoms or dietary necessities earlier than arrival! For those who’re a little bit of a late night time snacker like me, then take a deal with or two to nibble whilst you’re watching the glacier out of your balcony. Drinks and snacks can be found to buy from Café Victor.
– When on the boat, don’t overlook to move to the higher deck for excellent views on the journey up and again from Eqi Glacier.
Really useful Digital camera Gear –
As a result of the glacier is roughly 2-3km from the lodge, I extremely advocate having a top quality zoom lens in your bag. I took the next with me and managed to make use of each single lens since you’ve bought loads of time to check out varied vantage factors and angles.
Olympus E-M1X + E-M1 MKII
– M.Zuiko 300mm f4 – nice for capturing nearer particulars of the glacier and calvings from the camp
– M.Zuiko 40-150mm f2.8 – good whereas mountain climbing to make use of as the first zoom lens as a consequence of it’s versatility.
– M.Zuiko 12-40mm f2.8 – whereas I didn’t use this one as a lot, it was nice to have whereas mountain climbing to seize the surroundings and in addition to {photograph} the complete view from my tent.
– M.Zuiko 7-14mm f2.8 – I used this to {photograph} the midnight solar stars above my tent and in addition whereas wandering round camp to showcase the scene.
– DJI Mavic Air Drone – I’ll admit, I’m a complete wuss in terms of flying my drone and like when there’s nobody round or nothing too shut. This made Eqi the perfect place to fly, nevertheless, as a result of lack of satellite tv for pc sign and magnetic pull of the glacier, it’s fairly harmful as there’s a excessive likelihood your drone could fly north and by no means return.
This in thoughts, I used the drone from my tent and flew instantly above the camp to seize an general picture of the world. I additionally took the drone on a brief hike to seize some aerials of the icebergs…I didn’t fly it over the glacier after listening to what number of drones had been misplaced up there. Whereas flying, my drone misplaced contact a number of instances and I wasn’t ever additional than 100m away displaying simply how little sign there’s up there! So fly at your personal threat 😊
As with all visible critiques, I’ll let the images do the speaking so please see a group of photographs from my keep under…
To learn extra concerning the expertise or e-book your personal, go to worldofgreenland.com
Hiya! I’m the founder and photographer behind The Wandering Lens.
With 17+yrs expertise as an expert journey and panorama photographer, all recommendation discovered on this website is from my private expertise on the highway. I hope it’s helpful in your personal travels and would love to listen to within the feedback about your journeys and experiences world wide.