The Lengthy Crossing of Norway’s Lofoten Islands

Simply off the coast of northern Norway within the Arctic Circle lies a legendary archipelago by the identify of Lofoten. A mix of deep fjords, windswept seashores, jagged peaks and picture-postcard villages, its staggering magnificence has lengthy been celebrated in artwork and literature, and in newer instances, seemingly each second panorama photographer’s Instagram account. Whereas its unparalleled magnificence is in no way a secret, there may be nonetheless a technique to escape many of the crowds and expertise the Lofoten’s wonders in comparative solitude. It’s known as the Lengthy Crossing – a 160 km (99 mi) climbing route via the spectacular coronary heart of the island chain. 

Greg “Malto” Gressel and I hiked your complete Lengthy Crossing (plus facet journeys) over seven days in late September 2018. Click on right here for an in depth gear listing from the journey.

Yours actually descending from Dalstuva Peak on Stage 5 of the Lengthy Crossing.

At a Look

Origins – The concept for the “Lengthy Crossing” is from the group at Rando-Lofoten. This glorious web site is a goldmine for all issues climbing within the archipelago.

Distance (11 Phases):  160 km (99.4 mi) –  Our seven-day journey ended up being roughly 190 – 200 km (118 – 124 mi), as we additionally included facet journeys, some connector highway walks, and most notably an overland hyperlink between levels 9 and 10 (see Alternates for particulars)

Common Length:  11 days. 

Issue Stage:  Reasonable to tough

Begin / End:

• Village of Å (south)
• Delp (north)

Overview map of The Lengthy Crossing (Rando-Lofoten)

Which Route?:  I don’t suppose it makes a lot of a distinction. The Rando-Lofoten web site describes the hike from north to south, nonetheless, we selected to go the opposite path. Why? Just because it labored out higher for us with the ferry schedule from Bodø (See Getting There & Away).

Complete Elevation Acquire: 9,193 m (30,161 ft)

Highest Level: 1,029 m (3,376 ft) – The summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak – a not-to-be-missed facet journey from the primary route throughout stage 10.

Lowest Level: Sea degree.

Highest level – Gazing northeast from the summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak

The stunningly located Horseid Seashore; a nicely worthwhile facet journey throughout Stage 9.

Getting There & Away:

• Accessing the Lofoten Islands: The principal gateway to the Lofotens is the city of Bodø, which is serviced by every day flights from Oslo. From Bodø you’ll be able to catch one of many common ferries to both Svolvaer (closest city to the northern terminus) or Moskenes harbour (closest entry level to the southern terminus). See torghatten-nord.no for ferry data.

• Village of Å (southern terminus): From Moskenes harbour its a mild 5km (3.1 mi) highway stroll alongside the E10 to/from the southern terminus in Å. Alternatively, you’ll be able to take bus #18-742. See reisnordland.no for bus data. 

•  Delp: In accordance with Rando-Lofoten web site: “Take line 18-749 from Svolvær in path of Liland, cease at Jordness Kryss (20 min). Wait there and take the bus 18-733 in path of Laukvik, then cease at Straumsnes Vest. Stroll till the beginning (or end) of the hike.” For bus instances, see reisnordland.no.

• For an informative overview of transport choices for the Lofoten Islands, try the superb 68north.com.
  

  Trying eastward over Agvatnet in direction of the Village of Å / Stage 11.

Season:

• Mid-June to late September. 

• Malto and I selected to do the hike in late September/early October. This meant shorter days and an elevated likelihood of precipitation, nonetheless, we determined it was price it for the opportunity of seeing the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). It turned out we had been fortunate on each counts. We had advantageous climate for roughly six out of the seven days, and had been handled to Mom Nature’s mesmerizing mild present through the ultimate couple of nights of the journey. 

MLD Duomid and an emerald inexperienced evening sky / Ultimate evening of the Lengthy Crossing.

Planning Data 

• GPS Knowledge: GPS information for all 11 levels could be discovered on the Rando-Lofoten web site. We printed out maps for the route, along with having the GPX observe on our telephones (Gaia GPS app). Notice: See the Route / Circumstances part beneath for data on our overland hyperlink between Phases 9 and 10

• Overview Map: Other than the stage maps talked about above, we additionally carried a 1:100,000 overview map (#2549) of the Lofotens from Turkart. This well-liked sheet is broadly obtainable in bookshops, outside shops and vacationer places of work in Bodø and the Lofoten Islands.

• Guidebooks : We made do with the aforementioned gadgets together with some primary planning data listed on the Rando-Lofoten web site. For folk on the lookout for one thing extra, Rando-Lofoten have put out a paperback guidebook – Mountaineering within the Lofoten Islands – which incorporates detailed trekking notes for the route, along with beta on greater than 60 day hikes all through the archipelago.

• Further Common Data: I had a Kindle model of Lonely Planet’s newest Norway journey guidebook on my cellphone.

• On-line Beta: Other than Rando-Lofoten, among the best sources for exploring the archipelago on foot is Cody Duncan’s wonderful web site, 68north.com. Other than helpful logistical data, Duncan’s photographs are among the many finest I’ve seen from the storied archipelago. They’re so good the truth is, that a few of them are featured within the second of my Wanderlust books, The Hidden Tracks!

Dawn from Hermannsdalstinden Peak.

• Permits: No permits are required to hike within the Lofoten Islands.

• Language:  Norwegian. With the potential exception of oldsters which can be over 60, just about everybody you meet within the islands speaks English. That stated, as an indication of respect to your hosts I extremely advocate studying some primary pleasantries within the native tongue.

• Cell/Cell Protection: There may be protection in the entire villages, and many of the route’s excessive factors.

• Lengthy Crossing Planning Abstract: I’d advocate the next course: 1. Learn via this text; 2. Obtain the GPS information from Rando-Lofoten; 3. Think about selecting up their guidebook; 4. Take a look at Coby Duncan’s web site for visible inspiration, and; 5. Upon arrival in Bodo, buy the 1:100,000 overview map listed above (or order on-line earlier than you go).

• Gear Checklist: Click on right here for an in depth gear listing from the journey.

Heading north in direction of the sleepy village of Napp on the sixth stage.

Resupply & Water:

• Resupply:  You gained’t go hungry on the Lengthy Crossing. We by no means needed to carry greater than a day or two’s meals at anybody time. See the stage summaries on the Rando-Lofoten web site (or guidebook) for resupply particulars. Throughout our seven day hike we picked up meals on the following areas: Stage 2 – Sandsletta Tenting (restaurant / store); Stage 5 – Leknes (city); Stage 6 – Nusfjord village; Stage 7 – Ramberg village; Stage 9 – Vindstad (common ferry service to scenic village of Reine, which has a number of meals and lodging choices); Stage 11 – Village of Å.

• Water:  Ample. We by no means needed to carry multiple or two liters at anybody time. On the purification entrance, neither of us handled water through the hike, nor did we expertise any intestinal points.

Malto descending in direction of Forsfjord throughout Stage 10.

Morning ferry again to Vindstad, after an sudden facet journey to the picturesque village of Reine.

Route Notes:

Overview:

The Lengthy Crossing of the Lofotens is one among Europe’s most spectacular trails – a mixture of yawning fjords, hidden coves, serrated peaks and vibrant fishing villages. Though for essentially the most half unmarked, in clear climate the route shouldn’t be tough to observe as there are many distinctive pure options that act as reference factors for orientation. It may be a special story when its wet and foggy, so be sure you maintain observe of your location always. Terrain-wise the going is commonly steep, muddy and uncovered, however the otherworldly vistas present greater than ample compensation to your efforts.   

How Lengthy will it take?:

Within the “At a Look” part above, I point out that the typical Lengthy Crossing hiker will take 11 days to finish the route. That is the time recommended on the Rando-Lofoten web site, and I feel it’s roughly on the cash for most people. Nevertheless, as is the case with virtually all multi-day treks, the period of time wanted to finish the Lengthy Crossing can range significantly relying on plenty of elements. Match and skilled hikers which can be carrying a light-weight pack and who’ve a good run with the climate, can comfortably do the the route in seven to 9 days with loads of time leftover for facet journeys.

Malto striding out at nightfall through the fifth stage. Notice the MLD Burn backpack and orange Patagonia Houdini windshirt – he has used each gadgets on each hike we’ve accomplished collectively over the previous eight years!

Highlights:

My favorite levels on the AV1 had been as follows:

• • Stage 1 –  Delp to Sandsletta – That includes a spectacular and really uncovered ridge stroll north of Matmora Peak.
  • Stage 9 – Selfjord Bay to Forsfjorden Fjord – Together with the facet journey to Horseid Seashore. Remember to go for a dip within the Arctic waters!
  • Stage 10 – Forsfjorden to the village of Å – That includes a facet journey to the summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak, which affords arguably the best 360° panorama in your complete archipelago.
  • Stage 11 – Out and again throughout the island from the Village of Å, through Agvatnet and Stokkvikvatnet lakes.

Extra views from Hermannsdalstinden Peak.

Malto descending alongside the north ridge of Matmora Peak earlier than the end in Delp.

Taking within the views from Matmora ridge.

Lowlights: 

Out of geographic necessity, there may be some roadwalking concerned on a number of of the levels. It’s potential to hitch or take buses throughout these sections (see Rando-Lofoten stage descriptions for particulars), nonetheless, we determined to hike them except for the phase between Napp and Leknes (which features a non-pedestrian tunnel that goes beneath the ocean). Though strolling on pavement isn’t ideally suited, we didn’t encounter an excessive amount of in the best way of visitors, and there was usually a reasonably huge shoulder in order that it by no means felt harmful.

Alternates

Other than worthy facet journeys to Hermannsdalstinden Peak, Helvetestinden Peak and Horseid Seashore, there have been two principal factors at which we diverged from the usual Lengthy Crossing route: 

Stage 2 & 3 – Olderfjorden 

The route described on Rando-Lofoten swings south towards the city of Svolvaer. As we had been already carrying ample provides, we determined to take the trail much less travelled from the junction on the finish of Olderfjorden (68°15.7872’N, 14°23.2307’E). From this level we continued ENE up the valley. The path was boggy, soggy, overgrown and disappeared and reappeared with regularity. All that stated, the surroundings was spectacular and it proved to be an enjoyably difficult part. We linked again as much as the usual route at Bothnvatnet lake (68°17.2426’N,  14°30.2077’E).

Stage 2 & 3 Alternate – Ascending from Olderfjorden on the sixth and penultimate day, we skilled our first sustained interval of inclement climate through the hike.

Overland Hyperlink between Phases 9 and 10: 

The parents at Rando-Lofoten recommend you’re taking the ferry between Kjerkfjorden and Forsfjorden. This is because of a steep, and doubtlessly harmful stretch situated between Vindstad and Kjerkfjord. Though I utterly perceive their omission, each Malto and I are very skilled in technical terrain, so we determined to research the part for ourselves.

The precise phase the Rando-Lofoten group are referring to begins on the saddle SE of Helvetestinden Peak (a must-do facet journey). It’s undeniably precipitous in elements and in moist climate could possibly be extraordinarily slippery. Nevertheless, if you’re sure-footed, have a very good head for heights and are carrying a light-weight load, I feel it’s throughout the capabilities of most sturdy and seasoned backpackers. Mountaineering from Vindstad to Kjerkfjord, you’ll start dropping from the saddle at 67°58.6197’N, 12°59.7817’E, and descend in a NE path, ultimately reaching flat floor at round 67°58.8192’N, 13°0.2269’E.  For a lot of the best way down there’s a faint path that’s sporadically cairned.

Though I personally didn’t discover this part to be overly tough, Rando-Lofoten don’t advocate it for a purpose. The sheer and rugged nature of the terrain implies that it’s appropriate just for seasoned hikers in advantageous climate. Earlier than deciding to provide it a strive, contemplate whether or not or not you could have the requisite expertise. When you aren’t certain, take the ferry.

Notice that the second a part of the connector part linking levels 9 and 10 is a very totally different story. Stretching between Vindstad and the facility station at Forsfjorden, this phase consists of a simple to observe, undulating path which skirts the jap facet of the fjord. It’s appropriate for hikers of all ranges of expertise.

Through the connector part between levels 9 and 10, I took a nicely worthwhile facet journey to the summit of Helvetestinden Peak.

Pre-descent views over Kjerkfjord from the saddle SE of Helvetestinden Peak.

Trying again towards the saddle after descending a grassy chute.

The village of Kjerkfjorden.

Sleeping

Wild tenting is feasible all through the Lengthy Crossing. Throughout our week lengthy journey, we camped out each evening besides one; an unplanned facet journey to the picturesque village of Reine. To get there, we took one of many twice every day ferries from Vindstad. For lodging choices in villages alongside the best way, see the Rando-Lofoten web site or try up-to-date choices on Reserving.com. 

MLD Duomid at sundown on Day 3.

Ultimate Musings from the Lengthy Crossing

Solitude within the Lofotens

By any standards the Lofoten Islands is among the most terribly stunning locations on the planet. It’s due to this fact no shock that in recent times its recognition has began to increase. However as is the case with different well-known pure wonders such because the Grand Canyon and Yosemite Nationwide Park, backpacking provides a technique to escape the crowds and luxuriate in a excessive diploma of solitude. Through the Lengthy Crossing there have been instances once we noticed different vacationers – Bunes seashore, the Village of Å and Munken come to thoughts – nonetheless, for essentially the most half we had the path to ourselves. And that in a nutshell seashell is among the issues that I’ve all the time beloved about climbing – with a bit additional effort it’s potential to extricate your self from the overwhelmed observe, and discover quiet and peaceable moments even in a number of the earth’s hottest wilderness corners.

Norway’s Cod Capital

All through the Lengthy Crossing you will note cod drying racks in many of the villages. A few years earlier than it grew to become a mecca for nature loving vacationers, the Lofoten Islands performed an necessary position in Norway’s fishing business. For greater than a millennium it has been the centre of nation’s profitable cod fisheries. A task that’s of specific significance through the colder months, when cod migrate south from the Barents sea and are available to the hotter waters of the Lofotens with the intention to spawn.

A Thermal Anomaly

Because of the above-mentioned heat currents of the Gulf Stream, the Lofoten Islands experiences a comparatively delicate oceanic local weather. Regardless of it mendacity at an analogous latitude to locations comparable to Alaska and Greenland, common winter and summer time temperatures within the archipelago are a relatively balmy 1°C (33.8°F) and 13°C (55.4°F) respectively.

Publish-hike Facet Journey – The Mosktraumen  

Situated simply off the Lofoten archipelago is a singular system of tidal eddies and whirlpools often called the Moskstraumen (or maelstrom). Over the centuries this hydrological phenomena has been featured in varied basic literary tales together with Jules Verne’s, “Twenty Thousand Leagues Below the Sea” and Edgar Allen Poe’s quick story, “A Descent into the Maelstrom.” What units the legendary Moskstraumen aside from most different whirlpools is its energy – it’s the second strongest of its form on the planet – plus the truth that it happens in open sea, somewhat than in a river or strait.

Malto 

I’ll end this submit with a shout-out to my good pal and climbing companion on the Lengthy Crossing, Greg “Malto” Gressel. Since assembly on the Appalachian Path in November, 2012, Malto and I’ve accomplished a bunch of various climbing journeys collectively together with the Lowest to Highest Route, Wonderland Path, Northville Placid Path and the Wind River Excessive Route. Most of those journeys had been accomplished exterior of normal climbing season home windows, and as a consequence we’ve sometimes encountered some pretty difficult climate (see photos beneath). Regardless of the meteorological obstacles and a gag-worthy path food regimen of spam and maltodextrin, Malto has all the time remained singularly upbeat and infrequently appears to put on down regardless of the situations. It’s particularly spectacular when you think about he simply celebrated his eighty fifth birthday. Thanks for one more nice hike, mate!

Malto wading via the appropriately named “Duck Gap” through the mom of all storms | Northville Placid Path, Adirondacks, New York, 2015.

Malto descending to Little Sandy Creek throughout an enormous snow storm in Wyoming’s Wind River Vary (2016).

Malto and I on the summit of Matmora, the ultimate peak of our Lengthy Crossing of the Lofoten Islands.

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