The Lengthy Crossing of Norway’s Lofoten Islands

Simply off the coast of northern Norway within the Arctic Circle lies a legendary archipelago by the title of Lofoten. A mix of deep fjords, windswept seashores, jagged peaks and picture-postcard villages, its staggering magnificence has lengthy been celebrated in artwork and literature, and in more moderen instances, seemingly each second panorama photographer’s Instagram account. Whereas its unparalleled magnificence is not at all a secret, there may be nonetheless a approach to escape a lot of the crowds and expertise the Lofoten’s wonders in comparative solitude. It’s referred to as the Lengthy Crossing – a 160 km (99 mi) climbing route by means of the spectacular coronary heart of the island chain. 

Greg “Malto” Gressel and I hiked your entire Lengthy Crossing (plus facet journeys) over seven days in late September 2018. Click on right here for an in depth gear listing from the journey.

Yours actually descending from Dalstuva Peak on Stage 5 of the Lengthy Crossing.

At a Look

Origins – The thought for the “Lengthy Crossing” is from the group at Rando-Lofoten. This wonderful web site is a goldmine for all issues climbing within the archipelago.

Distance (11 Phases):  160 km (99.4 mi) –  Our seven-day journey ended up being roughly 190 – 200 km (118 – 124 mi), as we additionally included facet journeys, some connector highway walks, and most notably an overland hyperlink between phases 9 and 10 (see Alternates for particulars)

Common Period:  11 days. 

Problem Degree:  Average to troublesome

Begin / End:

• Village of Å (south)
• Delp (north)

Overview map of The Lengthy Crossing (Rando-Lofoten)

Which Route?:  I don’t suppose it makes a lot of a distinction. The Rando-Lofoten website describes the hike from north to south, nevertheless, we selected to go the opposite course. Why? Just because it labored out higher for us with the ferry schedule from Bodø (See Getting There & Away).

Complete Elevation Achieve: 9,193 m (30,161 ft)

Highest Level: 1,029 m (3,376 ft) – The summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak – a not-to-be-missed facet journey from the principle route throughout stage 10.

Lowest Level: Sea stage.

Highest level – Gazing northeast from the summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak

The stunningly located Horseid Seashore; a effectively worthwhile facet journey throughout Stage 9.

Getting There & Away:

• Accessing the Lofoten Islands: The principal gateway to the Lofotens is the city of Bodø, which is serviced by every day flights from Oslo. From Bodø you possibly can catch one of many common ferries to both Svolvaer (closest city to the northern terminus) or Moskenes harbour (closest entry level to the southern terminus). See torghatten-nord.no for ferry data.

• Village of Å (southern terminus): From Moskenes harbour its a delicate 5km (3.1 mi) highway stroll alongside the E10 to/from the southern terminus in Å. Alternatively, you possibly can take bus #18-742. See reisnordland.no for bus data. 

•  Delp: In response to Rando-Lofoten web site: “Take line 18-749 from Svolvær in course of Liland, cease at Jordness Kryss (20 min). Wait there and take the bus 18-733 in course of Laukvik, then cease at Straumsnes Vest. Stroll till the beginning (or end) of the hike.” For bus instances, see reisnordland.no.

• For an informative overview of transport choices for the Lofoten Islands, try the wonderful 68north.com.
  

  Wanting eastward over Agvatnet in direction of the Village of Å / Stage 11.

Season:

• Mid-June to late September. 

• Malto and I selected to do the hike in late September/early October. This meant shorter days and an elevated likelihood of precipitation, nevertheless, we determined it was value it for the opportunity of seeing the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). It turned out we have been fortunate on each counts. We had high-quality climate for roughly six out of the seven days, and have been handled to Mom Nature’s mesmerizing gentle present throughout the remaining couple of nights of the journey. 

MLD Duomid and an emerald inexperienced night time sky / Closing night time of the Lengthy Crossing.

Planning Info 

• GPS Knowledge: GPS information for all 11 phases will be discovered on the Rando-Lofoten web site. We printed out maps for the route, along with having the GPX monitor on our telephones (Gaia GPS app). Word: See the Route / Situations part under for data on our overland hyperlink between Phases 9 and 10

• Overview Map: Other than the stage maps talked about above, we additionally carried a 1:100,000 overview map (#2549) of the Lofotens from Turkart. This fashionable sheet is broadly out there in bookshops, outside shops and vacationer places of work in Bodø and the Lofoten Islands.

• Guidebooks : We made do with the aforementioned objects together with some primary planning data listed on the Rando-Lofoten website. For folk on the lookout for one thing extra, Rando-Lofoten have put out a paperback guidebook – Mountain climbing within the Lofoten Islands – which incorporates detailed trekking notes for the route, along with beta on greater than 60 day hikes all through the archipelago.

• Extra Common Info: I had a Kindle model of Lonely Planet’s newest Norway journey guidebook on my telephone.

• On-line Beta: Other than Rando-Lofoten, among the best assets for exploring the archipelago on foot is Cody Duncan’s wonderful web site, 68north.com. Other than helpful logistical data, Duncan’s images are among the many finest I’ve seen from the storied archipelago. They’re so good in actual fact, that a few of them are featured within the second of my Wanderlust books, The Hidden Tracks!

Dawn from Hermannsdalstinden Peak.

• Permits: No permits are required to hike within the Lofoten Islands.

• Language:  Norwegian. With the doable exception of oldsters which might be over 60, just about everybody you meet within the islands speaks English. That mentioned, as an indication of respect in your hosts I extremely suggest studying some primary pleasantries within the native tongue.

• Cell/Cell Protection: There’s protection in the entire villages, and a lot of the route’s excessive factors.

• Lengthy Crossing Planning Abstract: I’d suggest the next course: 1. Learn by means of this text; 2. Obtain the GPS information from Rando-Lofoten; 3. Think about selecting up their guidebook; 4. Take a look at Coby Duncan’s web site for visible inspiration, and; 5. Upon arrival in Bodo, buy the 1:100,000 overview map listed above (or order on-line earlier than you go).

• Gear Listing: Click on right here for an in depth gear listing from the journey.

Heading north in direction of the sleepy village of Napp on the sixth stage.

Resupply & Water:

• Resupply:  You received’t go hungry on the Lengthy Crossing. We by no means needed to carry greater than a day or two’s meals at anyone time. See the stage summaries on the Rando-Lofoten web site (or guidebook) for resupply particulars. Throughout our seven day hike we picked up meals on the following places: Stage 2 – Sandsletta Tenting (restaurant / store); Stage 5 – Leknes (city); Stage 6 – Nusfjord village; Stage 7 – Ramberg village; Stage 9 – Vindstad (common ferry service to scenic village of Reine, which has a number of meals and lodging choices); Stage 11 – Village of Å.

• Water:  Ample. We by no means needed to carry multiple or two liters at anyone time. On the purification entrance, neither of us handled water throughout the hike, nor did we expertise any intestinal points.

Malto descending in direction of Forsfjord throughout Stage 10.

Morning ferry again to Vindstad, after an sudden facet journey to the picturesque village of Reine.

Route Notes:

Overview:

The Lengthy Crossing of the Lofotens is one among Europe’s most spectacular trails – a mixture of yawning fjords, hidden coves, serrated peaks and vibrant fishing villages. Though for probably the most half unmarked, in clear climate the route will not be troublesome to comply with as there are many distinctive pure options that act as reference factors for orientation. It may be a special story when its wet and foggy, so make sure you maintain monitor of your location always. Terrain-wise the going is usually steep, muddy and uncovered, however the otherworldly vistas present greater than ample compensation in your efforts.   

How Lengthy will it take?:

Within the “At a Look” part above, I point out that the common Lengthy Crossing hiker will take 11 days to finish the route. That is the time instructed on the Rando-Lofoten web site, and I feel it’s kind of on the cash for most folk. Nonetheless, as is the case with virtually all multi-day treks, the period of time wanted to finish the Lengthy Crossing can differ enormously relying on a variety of components. Match and skilled hikers which might be carrying a lightweight pack and who’ve a good run with the climate, can comfortably do the the route in seven to 9 days with loads of time leftover for facet journeys.

Malto striding out at nightfall throughout the fifth stage. Word the MLD Burn backpack and orange Patagonia Houdini windshirt – he has used each objects on each hike we’ve finished collectively over the previous eight years!

Highlights:

My favorite phases on the AV1 have been as follows:

• • Stage 1 –  Delp to Sandsletta – That includes a spectacular and really uncovered ridge stroll north of Matmora Peak.
  • Stage 9 – Selfjord Bay to Forsfjorden Fjord – Together with the facet journey to Horseid Seashore. Be sure you go for a dip within the Arctic waters!
  • Stage 10 – Forsfjorden to the village of Å – That includes a facet journey to the summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak, which affords arguably the best 360° panorama in your entire archipelago.
  • Stage 11 – Out and again throughout the island from the Village of Å, by way of Agvatnet and Stokkvikvatnet lakes.

Extra views from Hermannsdalstinden Peak.

Malto descending alongside the north ridge of Matmora Peak earlier than the end in Delp.

Taking within the views from Matmora ridge.

Lowlights: 

Out of geographic necessity, there may be some roadwalking concerned on a number of of the phases. It’s doable to hitch or take buses throughout these sections (see Rando-Lofoten stage descriptions for particulars), nevertheless, we determined to hike them except for the section between Napp and Leknes (which features a non-pedestrian tunnel that goes beneath the ocean). Though strolling on pavement is rarely ultimate, we didn’t encounter an excessive amount of in the best way of visitors, and there was usually a reasonably broad shoulder in order that it by no means felt harmful.

Alternates

Other than worthy facet journeys to Hermannsdalstinden Peak, Helvetestinden Peak and Horseid Seashore, there have been two principal factors at which we diverged from the usual Lengthy Crossing route: 

Stage 2 & 3 – Olderfjorden 

The route described on Rando-Lofoten swings south towards the city of Svolvaer. As we have been already carrying adequate provides, we determined to take the trail much less travelled from the junction on the finish of Olderfjorden (68°15.7872’N, 14°23.2307’E). From this level we continued ENE up the valley. The path was boggy, soggy, overgrown and disappeared and reappeared with regularity. All that mentioned, the surroundings was spectacular and it proved to be an enjoyably difficult part. We linked again as much as the usual route at Bothnvatnet lake (68°17.2426’N,  14°30.2077’E).

Stage 2 & 3 Alternate – Ascending from Olderfjorden on the sixth and penultimate day, we skilled our first sustained interval of inclement climate throughout the hike.

Overland Hyperlink between Phases 9 and 10: 

The parents at Rando-Lofoten counsel you are taking the ferry between Kjerkfjorden and Forsfjorden. This is because of a steep, and doubtlessly harmful stretch positioned between Vindstad and Kjerkfjord. Though I fully perceive their omission, each Malto and I are very skilled in technical terrain, so we determined to analyze the part for ourselves.

The particular section the Rando-Lofoten group are referring to begins on the saddle SE of Helvetestinden Peak (a must-do facet journey). It’s undeniably precipitous in components and in moist climate might be extraordinarily slippery. Nonetheless, if you’re sure-footed, have a very good head for heights and are carrying a light-weight load, I feel it’s throughout the capabilities of most sturdy and seasoned backpackers. Mountain climbing from Vindstad to Kjerkfjord, you’ll start dropping from the saddle at 67°58.6197’N, 12°59.7817’E, and descend in a NE course, finally reaching flat floor at round 67°58.8192’N, 13°0.2269’E.  For a lot of the best way down there’s a faint path that’s sporadically cairned.

Though I personally didn’t discover this part to be overly troublesome, Rando-Lofoten don’t suggest it for a purpose. The sheer and rugged nature of the terrain signifies that it’s appropriate just for seasoned hikers in high-quality climate. Earlier than deciding to present it a strive, think about whether or not or not you might have the requisite expertise. If you happen to aren’t positive, take the ferry.

Word that the second a part of the connector part linking phases 9 and 10 is a totally completely different story. Stretching between Vindstad and the facility station at Forsfjorden, this section consists of a simple to comply with, undulating path which skirts the japanese facet of the fjord. It’s appropriate for hikers of all ranges of expertise.

Through the connector part between phases 9 and 10, I took a effectively worthwhile facet journey to the summit of Helvetestinden Peak.

Pre-descent views over Kjerkfjord from the saddle SE of Helvetestinden Peak.

Wanting again towards the saddle after descending a grassy chute.

The village of Kjerkfjorden.

Sleeping

Wild tenting is feasible all through the Lengthy Crossing. Throughout our week lengthy journey, we camped out each night time besides one; an unplanned facet journey to the picturesque village of Reine. To get there, we took one of many twice every day ferries from Vindstad. For lodging choices in villages alongside the best way, see the Rando-Lofoten web site or try up-to-date choices on Reserving.com. 

MLD Duomid at sundown on Day 3.

Closing Musings from the Lengthy Crossing

Solitude within the Lofotens

By any standards the Lofoten Islands is among the most terribly lovely locations on the planet. It’s due to this fact no shock that lately its reputation has began to increase. However as is the case with different well-known pure wonders such because the Grand Canyon and Yosemite Nationwide Park, backpacking gives a approach to escape the crowds and revel in a excessive diploma of solitude. Through the Lengthy Crossing there have been instances once we noticed different vacationers – Bunes seaside, the Village of Å and Munken come to thoughts – nevertheless, for probably the most half we had the path to ourselves. And that in a nutshell seashell is among the issues that I’ve all the time beloved about climbing – with somewhat further effort it’s doable to extricate your self from the crushed monitor, and discover quiet and peaceable moments even in a number of the earth’s hottest wilderness corners.

Norway’s Cod Capital

All through the Lengthy Crossing you will note cod drying racks in a lot of the villages. A few years earlier than it grew to become a mecca for nature loving vacationers, the Lofoten Islands performed an vital function in Norway’s fishing business. For greater than a millennium it has been the centre of nation’s profitable cod fisheries. A task that’s of explicit significance throughout the colder months, when cod migrate south from the Barents sea and are available to the hotter waters of the Lofotens with a view to spawn.

A Thermal Anomaly

Because of the above-mentioned heat currents of the Gulf Stream, the Lofoten Islands experiences a comparatively delicate oceanic local weather. Regardless of it mendacity at an identical latitude to locations corresponding to Alaska and Greenland, common winter and summer season temperatures within the archipelago are a relatively balmy 1°C (33.8°F) and 13°C (55.4°F) respectively.

Put up-hike Facet Journey – The Mosktraumen  

Situated simply off the Lofoten archipelago is a singular system of tidal eddies and whirlpools often called the Moskstraumen (or maelstrom). Over the centuries this hydrological phenomena has been featured in varied traditional literary tales together with Jules Verne’s, “Twenty Thousand Leagues Beneath the Sea” and Edgar Allen Poe’s brief story, “A Descent into the Maelstrom.” What units the legendary Moskstraumen aside from most different whirlpools is its energy – it’s the second strongest of its type on the earth – plus the truth that it happens in open sea, moderately than in a river or strait.

Malto 

I’ll end this submit with a shout-out to my good pal and climbing associate on the Lengthy Crossing, Greg “Malto” Gressel. Since assembly on the Appalachian Path in November, 2012, Malto and I’ve finished a bunch of various climbing journeys collectively together with the Lowest to Highest Route, Wonderland Path, Northville Placid Path and the Wind River Excessive Route. Most of those journeys have been finished outdoors of normal climbing season home windows, and as a consequence we’ve often encountered some pretty difficult climate (see photographs under). Regardless of the meteorological obstacles and a gag-worthy path food regimen of spam and maltodextrin, Malto has all the time remained singularly upbeat and barely appears to put on down no matter the situations. It’s particularly spectacular when you think about he simply celebrated his eighty fifth birthday. Thanks for one more nice hike, mate!

Malto wading by means of the appropriately named “Duck Gap” throughout the mom of all storms | Northville Placid Path, Adirondacks, New York, 2015.

Malto descending to Little Sandy Creek throughout an enormous snow storm in Wyoming’s Wind River Vary (2016).

Malto and I on the summit of Matmora, the ultimate peak of our Lengthy Crossing of the Lofoten Islands.

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